Los Cabos
Where the desert falls into the sea
Los Cabos is where the desert falls into the sea. No jungle, no rivers and almost no rain: this is Baja California Sur, with cacti running down to the sand and a light unlike anywhere else in the country. It is Mexico's most expensive beach destination and also its most spectacular in pure landscape terms.
It is two towns, not one
The most common first-timer confusion. "Los Cabos" is the municipality covering two very different places linked by a 33-kilometre corridor:
- Cabo San Lucas — the marina, the nightlife, the yachts, El Arco and the party atmosphere. Louder, younger, more American.
- San José del Cabo — a colonial town with a plaza, a church, a gallery district and a far calmer pace. Our recommendation if you are not here for the bar.
- The Tourist Corridor — the highway between them, home to the big resorts, the golf courses and the best swimming beaches.
El Arco and Land's End
The granite formation where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific is the image of Los Cabos and it earns the fame. You visit by boat from the Cabo San Lucas marina, on a short run that usually includes Lover's Beach and the sea lion colony. It is one of those things that sounds like a tourist trap and is not.
The beaches, and one important warning
Not every beach in Los Cabos is swimmable. The Pacific-facing ones have strong rip currents and shore-breaking waves; Divorce Beach and several on the west side are for looking, not for getting in. The good swimming beaches face the Sea of Cortez:
- Lover's Beach — at Land's End, boat access only, on the Cortez side.
- Playa Médano — Cabo San Lucas's main beach, calm, with loungers and services.
- Chileno and Santa María — on the corridor, the two best for snorkelling, with reef and clear water.
- Palmilla — sheltered and family-friendly, good for children.
Always respect the flags: the sea here changes mood fast and the currents are real.
The water: whales, marlin and diving
From December to April grey and humpback whales pass through, and the watching is among the best in Mexico. Marlin sport fishing is legendary, and Cabo has hosted international tournaments for decades. And the Sea of Cortez — which Cousteau called "the aquarium of the world" — offers excellent diving and snorkelling, especially toward Cabo Pulmo further north, where a protected reef has recovered remarkably.
When to come
November to May is dry, sunny and mild: high season, and the prices show it. June to October is hot and falls within Pacific hurricane season, with September the riskiest month. For the best mix of weather and price, aim for May or November.
Getting there and around
The airport (SJD) sits near San José del Cabo, about forty minutes from Cabo San Lucas, with a great many direct flights from the US and Canada. Here a rental car — or a real transport budget — is worth it: distances are long, public transport is limited and taxis are among the most expensive in the country.
Where to stay
San José del Cabo for quiet, town life and good food. Cabo San Lucas for the marina, nights out and being walking distance from everything. The corridor if you are here for a resort and do not plan to move. And if you want the other side of Baja — surf, a real town and humane prices — Todos Santos is an hour away and another world entirely.
One piece of advice
Budget more than you think. Los Cabos effectively runs in dollars, and restaurant, tour and taxi prices are appreciably higher than the rest of Mexico. That does not make it a bad destination, but arriving unaware of it ruins the trip.
